Savaii: An update

By Cherelle S Jackson

“She is blue and green, lush with beauty and hospitality.” That’s Savaii in one phrase, coined by Jerome Grey in the hit song, “We are Samoa.”
Savaii has been described as a hidden paradise, the island you never hear of, honeymooners dream, pack packers delight, the native part of Samoa, the island where there are no Mars Bars and some went so far as to say it is Hawaiki, the birth place of Polynesia.
Savaii with all her fierce volcanic peaks, green landscape, idyllic beaches, historical sights and friendly people is well known as the Big Island.
But what is really in the big island apart from the dreamy paradise image portrayed by tourism advertisements and word of mouth?
The island is like a separate entity in itself, apart from the supplies from Upolu it otherwise runs daily by itself.
More often than not Savaii is isolated from the main events, which is celebrated on the main island of Upolu.
It has in the last five years has seen more development than in the last twenty years put together.
Transportation, communication, infrastructure, health and education facilities, labour and even fashion has changed so fast that the town of Salelologa is almost unrecognizable to the returning Savaiian.
With a population of 42,824, not even quarter of the total population Savaii is creating that small island state mentality combined with its eco-tourism approach.
The island is divided into 19 Faipule districts with the smallest being Gagaemauga II consisting of one village, Saleaula with a population of 609.
The largest district is Faasaleleaga I with 15 sub-villages amounting to an overall population of 5920.
It Island has three airports, two wharfs and a sturdy tar sealed road surrounding the island.
Ten years ago it would have been hard to even buy a shaver at a store, now you can choose between several brands, buy extra blades and still have more choices.
Five years ago some in the tourism industry had to travel to Apia to get supplies, now there’s no need to do that most of the products in Apia are available in Savaii.
Salelologa as many may know is the center of commercial activities in Savaii.
The town area itself has a population of 976.
It hosts the Salelologa market, which is a combination of food, fish and flea market in one building surrounded regular in shops.
The front lot of the market is the main bus station although it is not properly tarred or designated for the purpose it has worked well throughout the years.
On the left of the market is the ANZ Bank and on its right, the newly relocated and renovated Samoa National Provident Fund Building which was originally the Vailima headquarters until they moved nearer to the wharf.
Salelologa has the only mall in Savaii, the Bluebird Mall which in turn houses the National Bank, a store, Jetover Motel, a travel agent, Foto Land, a Doctors office and other small businesses.
The only wholesale based in Savaii is Ah Liki Whole Sale behind the market although most wholesalers from Upolu have an agent and send regular truck supplies to Savaii.
The major shops are Morris Hedstrom, Naumati’s Store, Avau’s, CCK and Taylor Mariners down at the Wharf.
There is a furniture shop, several tyre repair and sales shops including WestEnd.
The Wesley Bookshop and the Ia Malamalama remains to be the only bookstores on island.
The Salelologa Library behind the market still remains to be the best place to study and a great source of information.
There is one dial-up taxi stand in Savaii, most patrol or wait for passengers at the wharf, airport or hotels.
To this date most of the businesses in Savaii are owned by native Savaiians.
The Mariners, Naumati, Avau, Pele’s and Ropatis are some of the oldest business names.
Apart from Salelologa the second base of activity is Tuasivi where the Malietoa Tanumafili II Hospital is located.
The Police Station, SamoaTel Post Office, Court House, Registration Building and Naumati Store are also located in Tuasivi.
Tuasivi in the last census recorded a population of 372.
But there’s more to Savaii then the buildings and infrastructure, there’s the people, the sights and sounds and the culture, the things that really make Savaii.